Aux élégantes en vacances hivernales dans les stations huppées au cours des années 20 et 30, les catalogues de vêtements de sports d’hiver, comme celui de la Firme Tunmer par exemple, proposent un choix de tenues inspirées des coupes masculines et militaires.
Coupes sportives, coloris sobres et tissus résistants
L’objectif est de procurer une grande liberté de mouvement. Aux blancs et aux pastels, qui semblent bien ternes comparés à l’éclat de la neige, on préfère les teintes foncées. les tissus sont imperméables et solides, souvent égayés d’un accessoire de couleur vive, ou d’un col ou d’une chemisette en flanelle ou en soie.
Pour le ski, on prise ainsi les culottes de marche, pantalons norvégiens, knickerbockers, jupes amples à godets ou serrées au-dessus du genoux et blouses droites boutonnées ou fermées par une fermeture Eclair, en coton, drap, cordscrew ou whipcord. La palette va du beige et du havane au noir, en passant par le vert, le rouge et le marine.
Pour le patinage, on préfère les ensembles trois ou cinq pièces composés de jupes amples à godets, culottes bouffantes serrées aux genoux, jumpers en tricot, pulls échancrés, écharpes et bonnets. Les coloris sont bicolores (noir et blanc, bleu et beige, brique et beige). Le bonnet en chamaline de laine, chaud et confortable, peut être jade, jaune, blanc ou brique.
Gros plan sur les sportswomen du Grand Hôtel de Font-Romeu: un vestiaire contrasté, entre tenues de sport et toilettes de soirée
Cet article paru dans le journal Excelsior du 8 février 1927 nous informe sur les mœurs vestimentaires des sportswomen qui séjournent au Grand Hôtel :
C’est la saison des sports blancs. A Superbagnères, à Font-Romeu, la vie active bat son plein. Dix-huit cents mètres d’altitude, dans les neiges! Ici, un village charmant, entouré de profondes sapinières toutes givrées; là, un vaste plateau immaculé. Un seul et magnifique palace s’y élève, immédiatement entouré par les patinoires, les champs de ski, les pistes de bobsleigh, qu’encadrent des cimes neigeuses crevées par les roches aiguës des hauts pics pyrénéens.
La même vie d’élégance règne ici et là. Elle se résume ainsi : vie sportive tout le jour, vie mondaine le soir.
Deux types de costumes seulement : vêtements de sport, toilettes de soirée. La femme est muée en « homme », de 8 heures du matin à 8 heures du soir. Elle déjeune, danse, goûte en costume de skieur, les joues roses, le nez souvent brillant, les tempes et la nuque rasées, et si libre, si dégagée d’allure, portant si crânement les grosses chaussures cloutées et le pantalon, que l’on ne sait guère distinguer qui est l’homme, qui est la femme.
Et le jeu, le jeu nouveau — à chaque saison — est de rechercher, de reconnaître, sous ces deux aspects si différents, la femme entrevue le jour en culotte et sans poudre, et la même retrouvée le soir, fardée et toutes perles dehors !
Car, le soir, on redevient femme avec délices!
Des mousselines, des lamés, des diamants, des mules à la Cendrillon! Plus
de joues trop brillantes, ni de mèches folles, ni de doigts rouges!… Ainsi que le jour, d’ailleurs, «la débauche des couleurs atteint son paroxysme. Les roses, es bleus, les jaunes pastels, les rouges vifs et les verts pâles étincellent sous les globes électriques comme sur la
grande plaine blanche ensoleillée.
-Excelsior, 8/2/27, n.p.
Et quand les créateurs s’en mêlent…
Dès le milieu des années 2O, des créateurs comme Jean Patou ou Elsa Schiaparelli s’intéressent aux vêtements de sport.
L’élégance des hivernantes n’en est que magnifiée.
Sur cette autre illustration parue dans le journal féminin Les Modes, au début 1924, on apprend ainsi que cette robe « Zig-Zag » (photo de gauche) a été portée à Font-Romeu.
A suivre : L’action du Touring Club de France
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